Skip to ContentGo to accessibility page
Physics

Performance Task

PhysicsPerformance Task

Performance Task

13.3 Wave Interaction: Superposition and Interference

27.

Ocean waves repeatedly crash against beaches and coasts. Their energy can lead to erosion and collapse of land. Scientists and engineers need to study how waves interact with beaches in order to assess threats to coastal communities and construct breakwater systems.

In this task, you will construct a wave tank and fill it with water. Simulate a beach by placing sand at one end. Create waves by moving a piece of wood or plastic up and down in the water. Measure or estimate the wavelength, period, frequency, and amplitude of the wave, and observe the effect of the wave on the sand. Produce waves of different amplitudes and frequencies, and record your observations each time. Use mathematical representations to demonstrate the relationships between different wave properties. Change the position of the sand to create a steeper beach and record your observations. Give a qualitative analysis of the effects of the waves on the beach. What kind of wave causes the most damage? At what height, wavelength, and frequency do waves break? How does the steepness of the beach affect the waves?

Citation/Attribution
Reuse and redistribution of this content in digital or print format:
  • This book may not be used in the training of large language models or otherwise be ingested into large language models or generative AI offerings without OpenStax's prior written permission.
  • This book uses the Creative Commons Attribution License, which means that you can reuse and modify the material only for noncommercial purposes, must attribute Texas Education Agency (TEA), and must distribute any derivative works under the same license. The original material is available at: https://www.texasgateway.org/book/tea-physics . Changes were made to the original material, including updates to art, structure, and other content updates.
  • Any commercial printing of this textbook, including using a local or custom printer, must be approved by OpenStax, and proper citation provided.
  • OpenStax-copyrighted images, activities, assessments, and similar components of this book are subject to the same licensing – CC-BY-NC-SA. They can be used for noncommercial purposes with attribution. Commercial use requires permission.
  • Permission requests: Anyone who intends to incorporate this content (including text, images, and other components) into large language models, use it in AI offerings, use it commercially (including in print), and/or has questions about another use case is welcome to complete our reuse request form.
Attribution information
  • If you are redistributing all or part of this book in a noncommercial print format, then you must include on every physical page the following attribution:

    Access for free at https://openstax.org/books/physics/pages/1-introduction

  • If you are redistributing all or part of this book in a noncommercial digital format, then for every page that includes OpenStax content, you must license the derivative work under the same CC-BY-NC-SA license as the original, and include on every digital page view the following attribution:

    Access for free at https://openstax.org/books/physics/pages/1-introduction

Citation information

The information below includes the information needed to generate citations in most major styles (APA, MLA, etc.); you must reformat and organize the information as needed to fit the requirements of the style. Use the information below to generate a citation. We recommend using a citation tool such as this one.

© Jul 8, 2026 Texas Education Agency (TEA). The OpenStax name, OpenStax logo, OpenStax book covers, OpenStax CNX name, and OpenStax CNX logo, and Rice University name, and Rice University logo trademarks, or wordmarks are not subject to the Creative Commons license and may not be reproduced without the prior and express written consent of Rice University.